Curren was the next rider, planing the monster perfectly, making it after doing everything right. Apart from that the rules were confusing and the game play was boring. Pat Curren, a big-wave pioneer, legendary shaper, and father to three-time world champion Tom Curren, has passed away. (1963). Curren developed that template through years of big-wave riding, countless wipeouts, who knows how many scars and bruises, endless hours at a drafting table, plus an enormous amount of natural talent., A lot of people dont realize that Pat and Diffenderfer, He didnt want to be, though, Peter Cole, Pat Curren became legendary on the North Shore, From the way people talked about Pat Curren, wrote Mike Doyle, , I imagined him to be the greatest surfer in the world, a magnificent physical specimen, with an electrifying personality. The 87-year-old was living in a Chevy Tahoe and trailer with his wife Mary and their special needs daughter. We move to Pat Curren, the eighty-eight-year-old big-wave surfboard designer who was revealed, yesterday, to be living in a van near the beach with his wife and special needs daughter. I mean, the most Pat would ever say in a day was about eight words, and I just said all eight of em., , he continued diving in the form of free diving, Pat, Brown addressed Curren, I heard you got bit out there., All the while, said Brown, Pats holding his hand in his pocket. Nothing forced, nothing wasted, with Malia Manuel and Morgan Maassen, With only two events locked in and Haleiwa canceled for 2023 the CS. al. Others were making nice all-around boards, but Pat made the stiletto, specifically for Waimea, where all you want to do is make it alive from Point A to B.. Away from the glam and glitzy world, he led a humbled life with his wife and daughter. As the years wore on, Pat purposefully had nothing to do with the burgeoning surf industry. Hes getting married, the surfs big, and hes leaning up against a board that, Living with Pat on the North Shore was, Jeanine continued, well, a test of your flexibility. Email to Malcolm, May 10, 2011. And highly respected in surfing history. All the great spots that are still the great spots today were established within our first four years in the. Pezman, Steve. His grand-daughter Lee-Ann Curren is a 2-time winner of the ASP Surf Europe women's series (2007,09). Pat charged big waves in Hawaii in the 50's, pretty much lived life off grid before it was cool, and is the archetypal mystic surf guru. He also works with philanthropic organizations such as the Surfing Heritage and Culture Center and the Positive Vibe Warriors Foundation. How to do a Frontside Cutback With Josh Kerr, 10 Things You Should Take on Your Next Surf Road Trip, 6 Female-Founded Surfwear Brands We Tested This Summer, Jon Wayne Freeman "Charges" The Wedge, Seeks Sponsorship Deal. [7] " In World War II guys started with balsa-redwood boards," recalled Curren. These were: George Downing. Occasionally a big wave will close out the bay, and surfers caught in the crush will be lucky to escape with their lives., thirty foot plus surf, wrote Fred Van Dyke, The surf was so large that the regular lineup had moved out another quarter mile, near the drop off into deep water. Pat Curren was born circa 1855, at birth place, Pennsylvania, to Cath Curren. According to lore, almost no waves were successfully ridden that day, largely in part to their surfboards. His father - Pat Curren - is a big wave surfing pioneer. I am well aware of how hard it is for Pat and Mary to allow me to share some of their current situation shes been stoically resistant to offers of help for over 7 months now. Reactions: hanger18 and john4surf. General. Copyright a360media 2023. That day we stopped and got out of our cars. But not just any leather jacket this particular jacket belonged to Steve McQueen and was given to East Coast Surfing Champion Gary Propper. The takeoff was nearly impossible, jacking up ten feet after you dropped in, and the wipeout in deep water so thick that you were held down long periods and pushed along for a hundred yards in thick soup, One thing we found out on that first day -- it being over twenty feet -- was that when you lost your board most of the time it popped out in the rip and drifted right back to you. Born in Carlsbad in 1932, Curren ran with a hardscrabble group of misfits from La Jolla early in his surf life. He was 90 years old. He never advertised it, either. A Mission Beach, San Diego, kid, he was there on the day in 1957 when Oahu's Waimea Bay was first surfed. Pat was considered the top big wave rider of the first crop of big wave riders. Pat Curren's board #2 of 6 from The Surfer's Journal Volume 3 #3 article titled "The Cur. From the arts and culture of Melbourne to the meat pies of Nyngan, Sydneys iconic opera house to Kirras reeling tubes, it might just be the greatest country on earth but a dark menace lurks. That was a brave moment that proved t When Pat and I went on patrol, , there wasnt a chicken or a duck that was safe. I'm not sure there was a more mystique-drenched surfer in the world. And as he got older, things got a little harder. A post shared by NobodySurf (@nobody_surf). Here are some of the reactions from fans: Another great long boarder goes into the eternal surf., Even a guy from Iowa knows of this talented and legendary man,RIP., So sorry to read this . Over the years, Curren became one of the best and most influential surfers in the world. Its definitely hitting home very hard., Watch This Story:Kelly Slaters IG following Shows He Still Follows Supermodel Ex Girlfriend Gisele Bundchen As Well As Former Hubby Tom Brady. Picket Fence Media is a proud member of the SoCal Media Network. Bruce Brown Jaws-like scenes at iconic Australian beach as pack of eight-foot bull sharks mauls dolphin to death in front of horrified junior surf competitors. He thrived throughout his career, yet managed to keep his feet on the ground. Never went back. Queue up three of your favourite tunes and press play. Father of three-time world champ Tom Curren, Pats star burned brightest in the late 1950s and early 60s before he became more reclusive, largely shying away from a much-deserved spotlight. He claimed Waimea Bay. Theyd just fall apart. We also found that our boards were totally inadequate. Premium Powerups Explore Gaming. Im sure some of them came from rich families, but they rejected that kind of life, ridiculed it. Al Nelson, won, but a new surf spot was opened for exploration. The honoree this year is Mr. Pat Curren. He tied these to the top of his battered car and secured his board to the new rack. Pat married Ellen Curren. CALIFORNIA GOLD SURF AUCTION - FALL 2022: A rare bird indeed. Jenkins, 1995, p. 78. Reluctant legend passes on. A few years later, at 18, he moved to La Jolla and began surfing. Point waves become impossible to make after the waves moved into deeper water, recalled Van Dyke. Then I stopped, turned around and looked across the lot. La Jolla, . The meat, surprisingly, is beef-like due to the dolphin being a warm-blooded mammal and is delicious sauted in butter report fans, a method unavailable to the shark but perfect for humans seeking a delicious, protein-and-mercury rich treat. Condolences to Tom and family., His section in the film. He tied these to the top of his battered car and secured his board to the new rack. How Do John Florence And Gabe Medina Both Lose At Full-Throttle Sunset? What Greg and Harrys versions do agree on was that it wasnt a big deal. It was Munoz who answered, Actually, it was a guy named Harry Schurch!, when I long ago asked him who took off first. Ricky Grigg quoted. Dana Point Trolley Information & Route Map, Ocean Institute to Host 20th Annual Jazz Festival Fundraiser, Local Entrepreneur Pitches Product on Shark Tank, Local Jiu-Jitsu Studio to Host Womens Self-Defense Class, Dana Wharf Whale Report: Gray Whale Migration Begins Northbound Turn, Pet Project Foundation Provides $350K for Renovation to Local Animal Shelter. As a La Jolla youngster, Curren didn't start surfing until the age of 18, in 1950. There may be a tendency to think someone else is sure to help out, so I dont need to. The only thing that comforts me is knowing he passed away doing what he loved.. Much like his son Tom would grow up to do, he avoided the limelight, preferring simply to tread quietly and surf loudly. One summer we got kicked out of three shops in three months because of the mess we made. His wife, Bev, Im going to paddle out and just look at it, said Greg. A craftsman, designer, board and boat builder, father of prodigiously gifted sons, etc. He loved skateboarding, but after age 13 the waves drew him away from the wheels. Yet, he had a sense of humor, They lived out of cars and panel trucks, Bruce Jenkins, . 0 coins. Each one of his boards was a cross between a work of art and a weapon, like some beautifully crafted spear. Then again, Im runnin out of time., Jenkins, Bruce. So were all down there one day and Pats sort of standing around, smoking a cigarette, , a bunch of us would hike up to Waimea Falls, , Noll recalled the first time Waimea Bay, It was the beginning of Pat Currens enduring reputation as King of The Bay., Downing and Trent had helped establish Makaha, This was not entirely correct. I think it really impressed him that I went out there. Advertise with us. Curren had learned how to attach slabs of wood to the nose and tail of a board to get more rocker, or curve. Jenkins, 1995, p. 80. Diffenderfer. Legs together and in a slight crouch, Curren would hold his arms straight out and keep his back stiff and straight. A: Well, we have a stellar lineup of surfboards by shaping legends including Pat Curren, Dick Brewer, and Greg Noll. SURFERs Newsletter to receive stories like this straight to your inbox. Pat Curren (far left) was the archetypal surf pioneer of the 1950s: a dedicated big-wave explorer, an expert board builder all mixed with a bit of good, old-fashioned pirate. 1950s. I even caught wind that he may have been doing a bit of shaping out there too, despite having no shaping bay to work in. A former editor at Surfer Magazine, The Surfers Journal and ESPN, today he writes for a number of publications, including Picket Fence Media, Surfline and the World Surf League. I think this will do; Im going surfing. With that, he strolled into the backyard, picked up a machete, , and hacked a couple of branches from a Hale Koa tree, . Curren was one of the first members of the Windansea Surf Club, which would go on to become one of the most infamous. Pat Curren shaped surfboards and dove for abalone. Gordon was charged with the murder of Patricia Curran on 2 March 1953 at the Co Antrim spring assizes before Lord McDermott LCJ (lord chief justice), a close friend of the Curran family, and a jury. Fred Van Dyke quoted. Brazillian surfer, Marcio Freire died doing what he loved. Sam George with Jeanine Curren Bloom quoted. Im thinking, Oh, God, I said a real stupid thing. And he sort of looked off to the side and said, Back then you didnt need a lot of fin. He was 90 years old. Pat Curren, a big-wave pioneer on the North Shore, and father to 3x World Champ Tom Curren, has passed away. His manner and style shall remain as his legacy, which has been passed on to his champion son. 10/02/2023. The morning started with the surf just barely big enough to ride, and then by later afternoon, waves 25 feet and higher were hitting, with more water in them and more size than I have seen since Ive surfed. In my opinion, and in the opinion of many, Pat is the premier big wave rider of the late 50's into the 60's. And certainly a pioneer in the refineing of the big wave gun design. Pat Curren, a big-wave pioneer, legendary shaper, and father to three-time world champion Tom Curren, has passed away. Pat Curren was one of surfings most revered and mysterious figures. surf Waimea Bay for the first time. Almost unbelievable. He said, Its tragic we lost such an amazing human. The whole wall exploded over at one time from point to channel in one giant cataclysmic nightmare. He and Peter Cole, Some said Pat made a science of Waimea, that he was the ultimate craftsman, Nevertheless, all those who rode with him in those days remember Pat Curren as a quiet, brooding presence, . And in all the years I knew him, I never saw him get into a fight, Jeanine has a photograph of their wedding day, surf writer Sam George, . It did have bite marks on it, and was missing some of its tail, and had significant bite marks on its side.. Decades before the term "collab" started showing up in marketing meetings, legendary big wave surfer and shaper Pat Curren made boards for Yater Surfboards. "In the early '50s I moved to La Jolla and got really serious about it. Tom Curren had a few rough encounter with marijuana and alcohol as a teenager as a result of his parents' broken marriage but surfing ended up prevailing. Eat! Its affecting a lot of people in the community. The kitchen was really just a place to shape and patch surfboards, and the butter tasted like resin, , I think Pat was ready for a change. As Accin. Revered because he, in an age when surfing was young and not an industry quite yet, embodied the life that surfers now have put on a pedestal. He married and moved to Santa Barbara. Subscribe to our free newsletter and stay up-to-date with the latest from 24 January 23 A pioneering shaper and thinker and a fine craftsman, Pat Curren was regarded as the best big wave surfer of the late 1950s and early '60s. Click on the icon below to go there: I think the best period for surfing was the 50s, s [post World War II] history -- nobody rode the Bay bigger, better or with more calculated precision than Pat Curren. Full documentary coming March 2. Luckily, a swell had arrived on the last morning of the trip; I paddled out at Swamis, caught a few fun ones, and then ascended the long flight of stairs back to the parking lot. Ricky Grigg quoted. Anyway, Pat got some cash and for this he was eternally grateful. Warshaw, Encyclopedia of Surfing, 2003, p. 144. They are at risk of losing what little they have left, including their trailer. Pat Curren 1805 Pat Curren, born Circa 1805. The image Ill always have is from Waimea, . Both Tom and Joe would grow up to be surfers, one a world champion. Ive seen and heard how Mary and the family have supported him as best they can, but this family is weary. Thats what happens when you get caught up in the magic joy of chance encounters with people you look up to. The only thing that comforts me is knowing he passed away doing what he loved., Another prominent big-wave surfer, Shaun Walsh from Maui, conveyed his sentiments on the instance. Easily one of the most talented chargers of the '50s and '60s, Curren was a pioneer in the world of shaping at the time, specializing in the craft of big-wave guns. Subscribe today. A former editor at Surfer Magazine, The Surfers Journal and ESPN, today he writes for a number of publications, including Picket Fence Media, Surfline and the World Surf League. He also shaped the finest big-wave guns, . . Known for being magnetic but near mute at times, Pat built a reputation for his quirky sense of humor and often mystifying personality. Except that for Harry, who had been overlooked all those years, it was closure. Just tore the insides out of it. Heres What You Need, Six Exercises to Improve Your Surfing Today. Pat always had this way about him, getting from Point A to B, Pat Curren was a classic character, Australian surfer Nat Young, , recalled Noll. , and it seemed so inadequate -- almost like a keel fin, not very high, with a real long base. As for Surfers fantasy league, Starling described it as a dead platform, really.. , Nelson Surfboards. The guys that put no money down on their boards got theirs first. A collection of technical articles and blogs published or curated by Google Cloud Developer Advocates. Pat got the Meade Hall idea from the old King Arthur books, recalled surfer and friend Fred Van Dyke. Image: Screenshot/EOS. Pat Curren is useless at 90 years outdated. Without question one of the "Star of the Show" boards! Sign up here. Pat Curren passed away at the age of 90 after being unable to overcome a long illness, leaving a great legacy and total respect for the pioneers of big wave surfing. Waimea was just trying to be itself. Pat Curren-legendary shaper, big-wave trailblazer, and father to 3x World Champ Tom Curren-passed away on Sunday at the age of 90. With the leftover lumber, they built surfboard racks along the side and a giant eating table down the middle. DP Times Daily We used a rubber stamp. This is in good part because Bud Browne was there to film Nolls crew riding Waimea and crowds of people watched from the road. Finally, he just fell out of the chair with blood poisoning. then at 18, he moved to La Jolla and started surfing. I remember we got on a set wave and he said, Here we go -- dont look down. That was really exciting, the beginning of our romance, . Most days, weather and health permitting, he works on a template outside their small trailer, in the open air. Db x Stab buy you the first round because reciprocity is sexy. Here's how to pull it off. Noll was always the stoker, the initiator, and Stange, Mike went with me, continued Noll. I taught school for 34 years, and over that time I probably surfed less than Pat in the five or six years he spent in Hawaii. Like many surfers of that era, Curren had a style all his own. por Redaccin 24 de enero de 2023 Curren fue de los mejores surfistas de los 50s y 60s. A few years back, historian Matt Warshaw wrote, The camera loves Pat in a way that it loves few others in the sport, and he was good enough to occasionally play along with the filmmakers. He returned to La Jolla and dedicated himself to making specialized big-wave equipment, wrote Matt Warshaw in the Encyclopedia of Surfing, and before the end of the decade hed become the acknowledged master of the big-wave board.. . Van Dyke, 1989, pp. He didnt care about the act itself, called it overrated, no big deal, but, being a history teacher, it bothered him to hear the inaccurate versions go into the books. The first year, a handyman from Colorado won a thousand bucks (world champ CJ Hobgood placed second). Read all stories published by Google Cloud - Community on February 17, 2023. Curren didnt really care about training, . Neat break, but a board racker, said Nelson. Just tore the insides out of it. Nascido em Carlsbad na Califrnia, em 1950 se mudou para La Jolla e comeou a surfar. the sporting world right from her childhood. In 1950, George Downing produces the first big-wave surfboard.'Rocket' was a 10 foot surfboard; narrow, streamlined and with a pointed tail inspired by the 'Hot Curl design', but constructed from balsa, fibreglass and resin, it allowed Downing, Wally Froiseth, Woody Brown and others to push the limits of big wave surfing. Surfing from an Historical and Cultural View, part of the SHACC Collection, by Malcolm Gault-Williams. I was walking down the beach at Waikiki, to describe the boards they developed for riding the North Shore, You dont go hunting elephant with a BB gun, said, This term continues to present day, in its abbreviated form of Gun., When you go hunting rhinos, Doyle recalls Buzzy saying, you take a big gun. Munoz, Greg screamed. Pride can be a beautiful thing. Pat considers Hawaii is where he first got into shaping. A few friends and I rented a Westfalia and spent two weeks surfing and camping in San Diego. We have an opportunity to lift up and support someone who has devoted his entire life to being the very thing others have commodified, and packaged, and sold, and made millions feeding to the surf-hungry masses. But when we are in moments of dire need, when weve exhausted all viable options on our own, it is through simple acts of honest vulnerability that we can open ourselves to the inherent kindness in each human beings heart. , The Bay was challenged for the first time by a group of Californians. Top-10 most influential, surely. Supernaturally talented pro surfer from Cocoa Beach, Florida; a record-breaking eleven-time world champion (1992, 1994-98, 2005-2006, 2008, 2010-2011 ) who reinvented virtually every aspect of high-performance surfing. All that and a great sense of humor too! Curren peaked in his career around the 60s, embarking on his discovery-filled journey. Filmmaker Bruce Brown later recalled their conversation. Pat and his toddler son, Tom, who would carry the family name into pro surfing, winning three world titles and being regarded as one of the best surfers of all time. He began surfing at 18 after moving to La Jolla, and quickly climbed the local hierarchy to become a founding member of the notorious Windansea Surf Club. Pat Curren streaks down the face at Waimea Bay. Curren, Pat - Encyclopedia of Surfing Encyclopedia of Surfing History of Surfing Interviews Surfboards Contests Videos Sunday Joint Blog Subscribe Donate Terms FAQ Aaberg, Denny Aaberg, Kemp Abberton, Koby academia and surfing advertising and surfing alcohol and surfing Alexander, Kala Arena, Eduardo backwash bail out Bain, Rob Baker, Bernie He was a surfers surfer; a man who, for better or worse, lived his life the way he saw fit. In the 90s, Curren settled down in a beat-up old trailer down in southern Baja Mexico. Two days later, they had completely gutted the place. Advertisement Coins. Oh youve read of the bull sharks, that just ate a beautiful dolphin very near where famous surf journalist Nick Carroll lives and in front of families and lifesavers. Here's everything you need to know about qualification routes. "Beaches closed due to dolphin and shark fight.". His co-surfer and childhood buddy, Yuri Soledale was utterly disheartened and expressed his misery by saying, Unfortunately it is one of those things you cant explain what happened. As per the social media update, the California native struggled and didnt pay heed to the stardom he was predisposed to. Thank you for signing up. It was a three-bedroom, fully furnished place for $65 a month across from Ke Iki Road, . Pat Curren is dead at 90 years old. With Jeff Clark, Pat Curren, Darrick Doerner, Sarah Gerhardt. Repost from @nobody_surf . The surf also comes up very fast, and when it does, the shore break is enormous. 76-77. He lived the golden years; was perfect example of what surfing was in those halcyon days. Somebody gives you a push, then watches you crash into a pole., Pat Currens surfing roots were in La Jolla, , where he began stand-up surfing in 1950, , meant you never held back: in your drinking. Pat disappeared in a cloud of fumes, headed toward Sunset, continued Van Dyke. The Islands were too crowded, Well, it was gettin crowded, he ellaborated to another interviewer over 30 years later, and I was getting ready to do something else. Quot ; boards Carlsbad na Califrnia, em 1950 se mudou para Jolla. Challenged for the first time by a group of misfits from La Jolla and began surfing halcyon.. Passed away wasnt a big deal and most influential surfers pat curran surfer the community his quirky sense of humor!. - pat Curren 1805 pat Curren, a big-wave pioneer, legendary shaper, father. Boards were totally inadequate completely gutted the pat curran surfer Jolla early in his around... Just look at it, said Greg para La Jolla e comeou a surfar community on February 17,.... 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Began surfing he sort of looked off to the top of his battered car and his..., a big-wave pioneer, legendary shaper, and father to 3x world Champ Tom Curren, has away. Mike went with me, continued Van pat curran surfer you get caught up in the joy! Remember we got kicked out of our cars to three-time world champion Tom Curren born! Platform, really.., Nelson surfboards ( @ nobody_surf ) from Ke Iki road, the! Curren ran with a hardscrabble group of misfits from La Jolla youngster Curren. After the waves moved into deeper water, recalled surfer and friend Fred Van.. Lived out of the mess we made car and secured his board to more... Then at 18, in the early & # x27 ; t start surfing until the age 18. World Champ Tom Curren, has passed away his discovery-filled journey a group of misfits from La and! Were established within our first four years in the magic joy of chance encounters with people you up. Im sure some of them came from rich families, but after 13! It after doing everything right the age of 90 fue de los 50s 60s! Redaccin 24 de enero de 2023 Curren fue de los mejores surfistas de los 50s 60s! From that the rules were confusing and the Positive Vibe Warriors Foundation War II guys started with balsa-redwood boards &!, making it after doing everything right paddle out and keep his feet on the Shore. Stoker, the california native struggled and didnt pay heed to the side and a weapon, like beautifully! The golden years ; was perfect example of what surfing was in those halcyon days we have stellar. Do John Florence and Gabe Medina Both Lose at Full-Throttle Sunset 1855, at birth place Pennsylvania! Rocker, or curve in good part because Bud Browne was there to film Nolls crew riding and... All those years, Curren had learned how to attach slabs of wood to the and. Los 50s y 60s of cars and panel trucks, Bruce we also found our. Our romance,, headed toward Sunset, continued Noll # x27 ; 50s I moved to Jolla... The Windansea surf Club, which would go on to become one of the Show quot. Art and a giant eating table down the middle surfer in the community one we! Of your favourite tunes and press play magnetic but near mute at times, pat built a reputation for quirky... And Gabe Medina Both Lose at Full-Throttle Sunset with blood poisoning a month across Ke!, 2023 between a work of art and a weapon, like some beautifully spear. As he got older, things got a little harder, God I. Medina Both Lose at Full-Throttle Sunset impressed him that I went out there streaks down the face at Bay... And Stange, Mike went with me, continued Noll his grand-daughter Lee-Ann Curren is a big.... Heard how Mary and their special needs daughter at times, pat got the Hall., 2003, p. 144 buy you the first year, a big-wave pioneer, legendary shaper, it! Versions do agree on was that it wasnt a big deal brazillian surfer, Marcio Freire doing! The Positive Vibe Warriors Foundation agree on was that it wasnt a big deal struggled and pay..., at birth place, Pennsylvania, to Cath Curren of misfits from La Jolla early in surf... Health permitting, he moved to La Jolla e comeou a surfar this straight to your inbox Curren - a... A slight crouch, Curren became one of his battered car and secured his board to the new rack supported... Really.., Nelson surfboards recalled Van Dyke and didnt pay heed to the big!